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Building
Notes: Making Resin Kits
TOOLS
Only
simple inexpensive tools are required for model making and kit construction
in resin.
Knife
The best modelling knives are scalpels. They are extremely strong
and can be purchased in a variety of styles with various blade types.
The most important fact is that the knife is comfortable to use
and strong. Remember to always wear safety glasses when using sharp
instruments, and to cut away from you. All craft and surgical knives
are extremely sharp!
Straight
Edge
A simple but essential tool to ensure clean straight lines are cut
in a controlled manner. When using any form of model/craft knife,
always use a steel straight edge to prevent the blade cutting into
the straight edge. A variety of sizes are useful from 15cm to 100cm
depending on the work. Safety straight edges are an advantage as
the 'holding' fingers are protected from the blade.
Cutting
Mat
A recent innovation available in a variety of sizes from A5 to A3,
the 'self healing' surface provides a good flat surface for cutting
without damage to the blade. Generally a good addition to any tool
box.
Retaining
Tools
Basically anything that holds the items in place whilst the adhesive
sets. Useful items include elastic bands, bulldog clips etc. Masking
tape or similar can be useful to hold the model while it sets or
as a temporary six when checking.
Sanding
Products
Resins sand relatively easily and a variety of sanding products
help to improve the finish on models. Standard wet and dry papers
are useful together with sanding sticks (used to file finger nails)
which are abrasive boards similar to 'lolly' sticks. The Flexi-File
is an essential requirement when constructing kits with circular/oval
structures e.g. locomotive boilers. This special file wraps around
the shape reducing the potential to file a flat spot.
Model
Filler
Milliput is probably the most useful filler for use on resin kits.
Supplied as a two part epoxy putty mixed equally as epoxy resin
adhesive, Milliput offers a filler that cab be shaped and moulded
as required. Always try and reach as near to the actual finish as
possible before the Milliput cures as it becomes as hard as stone!
Drills
These include pin vice and small modellers electric drill together
withan assortment of drill tools.
ADHESIVES
It
should be noted that all adhesives and fillers used in resin modelling
may be harmful if inhaled or ingested. Always use in a well ventilated
room and never inhale vapour. Replace the lid/cap when not in use.
Super glues bond skin instantly! Wash well any spills in contact
with the skin. Always follow the COSH directions on the bottle/packet.
Two
adhesives are generally required as follows:
Epoxy
Resin
This is supplied as a two part adhesive; the resin and hardener.
The adhesive does not become active until equal amounts are mixed
together to form a thick viscous adhesive. In small quantities it
is sold in tubes or syringes, in larger quantities in metal tins.
Trade names include Araldite, Devcon, Humbrol Super Fast Epoxy and
Perma Bond. Care should be taken in selecting the right epoxy for
the job based upon the curing times, For most modelling purposes,
a five minute offers rapid construction whilst allowing small adjustments.
On large areas that can be held in position epoxy resins that cure
in twelve to twenty four hours offer a tremendously strong bond.
Epoxy resin offers the facility to join larger resin parts to sheet
brass.
Super
Glue
Useful in most modelling situations suoer glue can be used on most
resin kits to obtain a fast strong bond between resin components;
and to add detailing parts manufactured from other materials. A
'slow' setting super glue is recommended for our kits.
TECHNIQUES
- HINTS & TIPS
This
section hopes to give modellers a few basic tips to aid in the construction
of resin model kits.
- Where
using epoxy resin try and trim any excess adhesive prior to curing
as it becomes as hard if not harder than the resin kit. Just before
the glue sets it can be trimmed with a knife.
- When
cutting parts from a sprue use side cutters rather than a knife
where possible. Once removed, sand the 'pip' until it blends into
the model.
- When
cleaning mould edged on parts, try and sand on a flat surface
with the abrasive upwards to ensure neat edges. Sand paper is
useful for sanding the 'backs' of large castings.
- Use
a craft knife with the blade perpendicular to the subject to scrape
edges preventing damage to the model. A burnishing tool can also
be useful to clean the resin parts.
- We
always use a good quality white primer on our kits to enable the
top-coats to have a good 'key' to fix to.
- Small
windows can be made using clear drying high quality PVA adhesive.
Simply place the PVA into the window frame allowing a thin film
to cover the window. This will dry clear like glass.
- Air
bubble holes in some resin parts can be filled using fast setting
epoxy resin. Clean before the full cure is achieved and then sand
to the required profile.
- When
using super glue never apply the glue direct to the part. Always
place the glue onto a waste piece and apply with a small tool
to avoid excessive amounts covering the kit.
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